Lucid: The unreality of seeing

Iris Van Herpen collaboration, Maison des Métallos

Paris, FR  2016

Iris van Herpen and Philip Beesley continued their longstanding collaboration for the Lucid collection, presented in Paris on March 8th, 2016. The Dutch designer Iris van Herpen explored the concept of lucid dreaming in this collection. Within a lucid dream, the dreamer is conscious of the dream state and therefore is able to exert a degree of control on what is happening.

“When I design, the draping process most of the time happens to me unconsciously. I see lucid dreams as a microscope with which I can look into my unconsciousness. In this collection, I have tried to bring my state of ‘reality’ and my state of dreaming, together,” notes the designer.

These looks are made from transparent hexagonal laser-cut elements that are connected with translucent flexible tubes, creating a glistering bubble-like exoskeleton around the wearer’s body Both the models and the audience are mirrored as one in the show space, creating a close-up and intimate experience that is amplified by seventeen large optical light screens (OLF). Depending on the viewing angle, movement and proximity to the sheets, the perception of the audience that view the models is continuously shifted and deluded to reflect the fine line between reality and unreality. The visual alienation of the OLF was influential to van Herpen her design process. This season van Herpen opted for organic, circular, and voluminous silhouettes in light, iridescent colors of nude, green, and gray.

‘mesmerizing…look like the future’

‘surreal-mindbending-freaky…stepped out of your dreams…astonishing.’
(Washington Post)

‘Van Herpen’s lauded collaboration with Philip Beesley…a quiet triumph’
(Business of Fashion)

‘extraterrestrial beauty’
(Women’s Wear Daily)